The Culinary Heart of Mexico

Deep in the southern Sierra Madre mountains lies one of the greatest culinary regions in the world. The cuisine in Oaxaca is truly unique and heavily influenced by the gastronomic heritage of the region dating all the way back to Mesoamerica. Oaxaca is truly the culinary heart of Mexico.

What to Eat In

Oaxaca

From the 7 traditional moles to wood fire-grilled tlayudas, Oaxaca is simply delicious!

MUST EAT
BEST RESTAURANTS
oaxaca food travel guide

When to Visit Oaxaca

February to May – The hottest days of the year with daytime highs of 80°F to low 90s °F but with cool nights averaging mid to high-50s °F. This time constitutes the low season in Oaxaca.

June to August – This is the rainy season which means cooler nights but warm days and you will still get some days with no rain.

September to January – Cool and dry season which also means more tourists and higher prices.

Holidays to Note: Holy Week-Semana Santa (April), Guelaguetza (two Mondays following July 16th), Mexican Independence Day (September 15th), and Dia de Muertos (October 30th – November 3rd). Make sure to book in advance if traveling around these events. 

Food Festivals: Feria del Tejate (late March, early April), Mole Festival and Mezcal Fair (late July, during Guelaguetza) La Noche de Rabanos (Night of the Radishes) on December 23rd

Where to Stay for Food

CENTRO – This is the best place to stay to be in the heart of all the action and access to great restaurants and local markets. Staying closer to Zocalo will give you closer access to markets such as Mercado 20 de Noviembre and Mercado de Abastos. While staying near Santo Domingo Cathedral provides an easy walk to the area’s top restaurants and the biggest concentration of bars.

JALATLACO – A hip neighborhood just outside of Centro known for its colorful street art and cool cafes. About a 10-minute walk to Santo Domingo Cathedral.

BEST FOOD EXPERIENCES

Food Travel Tips

RESERVATIONS: You can get reservations a few days prior from these restaurants: Origen, Levadura de Olla (dinner)

FOOD SAFETY: Always opt for food made on the spot and eat when locals do. Skip the tap water and pre-cut fruit.

COST OF FOOD & DRINKS:

  • Tlayudas – 40 MXN to 120 MXN
  • Mole Negro con Pollo – 60 MXN to 125 MXN
  • Local Beer (0.33L bottle) – 30 MXN to 50 MXN
  • Mezcal Artisanal (2oz pour) – 45 MXN to 190 MXN
  • Cocktails – 100 MXN to 210 MXN

Dining Etiquette

Avoid looking like a tourist! Get insider tips on how to eat like a local, dining customs, tipping culture, and more.

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tlayudas food in oaxaca

TRAVEL BUDGET

Sample Budget is based on a per person per day. Food budget is higher than usual as food travelers. Backpacker Budget: Meals from street carts. Mid-range Budget: Meals from casual sit-down places. Luxury: Meals from splurge restaurants.

Backpacker

850/1200 MXN per day
  • Hostel: 250/600 (dorm/private)
  • Food: 250
  • Entertainment: 250
  • Transportation: 100

Mid-Range

1600/2000 MXN per day
  • Airbnb: 500/900 (room/apt)
  • Food: 500
  • Entertainment: 400
  • Transportation: 200

Luxury

5000 MXN per day
  • Hotel: 2000
  • Food: 1500
  • Entertainment: 1000
  • Transportation: 500

Need to Know

  • Language: Spanish, English, 16 indigenous languages
  • Currency: Mexican Peso
  • Getting Around:  Taxi, Didi (local Uber), City Bus, Collectivos
  • Money: Cash is preferred although credit cards are accepted in most hotels and large restaurants but not at local markets.
  • Safety: Be mindful of your belongings when walking through busy markets. When going home at night, it’s better to take a taxi than walk down dark alleys by yourself.
  • Insider Tips: Buy a bottle of mezcal because prices go up outside of the state due to taxes and it will be hard to find anything as good anywhere in Mexico. For vegetarians, take note that there is usually lard used in tlayudas and some masa. When visiting markets, it’s okay to haggle a bit but not too much considering it is one of the poorest cities in Mexico.

BOOKS TO INSPIRE

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Seasons of my Heart, A Culinary Journey through Oaxaca, Mexico

This cookbook is filled with the knowledge that was absorbed by this chef’s time studying the cuisine and the history of the region for over three decades.

Moon Oaxaca (Travel Guide)

This all encompassing travel guide covers everything you could possibly need to know for your trip to Oaxaca from history, culture, activities, environment, safety, and even includes a phrasebook.

Seasons of my Heart, A Finding Mezcal: A Journey into the Liquid Soul of Mexico, with 40 Cocktails

This groundbreaking book by the founder of Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal is a deep dive into the world of this traditional spirit.

Lost in Oaxaca: A Novel

The main character in this novel finds herself deep in the heart of Oaxaca where she is helped by a Zapotec man in locating her star piano student.

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